Beneath the unrelenting sands of China’s Taklamakan Desert, a discovery unlike any other has stunned archaeologists, food historians, and even cheese lovers. It wasn’t gold, jewels, or weapons that adorned the necks of these 3,600-year-old mummies—it was cheese. That’s right, ancient lumps of kefir cheese, as dry and fragile as desert dust, were found cradling the necks of the deceased like sacred amulets. This wasn’t just food but a relic of life, culture, and survival in a world we can barely imagine.
Cheese Fit for the Afterlife
The Xiaohe Cemetery, an ancient burial ground tucked away in the arid Tarim Basin of northwest China, revealed this treasure trove of Bronze Age mysteries. Over 20 ago, archaeologists unearthed mummies that were startlingly well-preserved. Leather boots, felt hats, even eyelashes remained intact. But what stunned researchers most was the peculiar, powdery substance arranged around their necks like jewellery. Analysis confirmed it wasn’t some ancient perfume or ritual paste—it was cheese, crafted from fermented goat and cow milk.
Why cheese? Experts believe this wasn’t a culinary accident. For the lactose-intolerant Xiaohe people, fermentation was survival. The kefir-making process reduced lactose, transforming milk into something digestible and nutritious. But the fact it was buried alongside these individuals shows cheese wasn’t just food—it was life, heritage, and maybe even a Bronze Age status symbol.
The Microbes That Travelled the World
Scientists didn’t stop at marvelling over the cheese—they sequenced its DNA. The results? A microbial trail of history. The kefir microbes told a story of two distinct origins. While some strains pointed to the Caucasus region of modern-day Russia, others linked directly to Tibet and East Asia. This discovery challenged long-held ideas about how dairy practices spread.
The findings revealed an extraordinary web of ancient trade. As nomadic tribes journeyed across the vast Eurasian grasslands, they transported cheese cultures, goat herds, and the bacteria responsible for fermentation.
What Did It Taste Like?
If you’re imagining a luxurious bite of creamy brie or tangy cheddar, think again. This cheese wasn’t made for indulgence. Scientists described it as sour, funky, and probably tough enough to crack a tooth after centuries of preservation. Modern kefir—still widely consumed in parts of Tibet and Central Asia—gives a clue to the flavour profile. But even then, the ancient cheese was likely more pungent, a testament to Bronze Age fermentation techniques.
Would anyone dare to taste it today? Absolutely not, scientists agreed. After all, the mummies’ cheese had long since turned to dust.
A Legacy Encased in Dairy
This discovery is about more than cheese—it’s a portal into a lost world. The Tarim Basin mummies lived at the crossroads of early human civilisation. Their cheese necklaces, carefully preserved by the desert’s dry embrace, are clues to how they lived, traded, and innovated. Scientists even found that the bacteria in the cheese evolved over 3,600 years, becoming more resistant to antibiotics and adapting to human immune systems.
