A plate arrives at the table, and tiny tentacles continue to squirm and dance across its surface. This isn’t a scene from a science fiction film – it’s dinner time in South Korea, where one of the world’s most controversial dishes continues to enthrall and alarm diners in equal measure.
The Dance of Death
Tragedy struck in Gwangju when an 82-year-old man lost his life after choking on a tentacle of sannakji, the Korean delicacy of raw octopus served while still moving. Despite emergency services arriving within ten minutes, they couldn’t save him. His death adds to a sobering statistic – approximately six people die each year from attempting to eat this dangerous dish.
How to Eat Sannakji
Sannakji features a small octopus species known as nakji, found along Korea’s southern coasts. These eight-legged creatures, typically just 20 centimetres long, continue to move even after being cut into pieces thanks to their complex nervous systems. Their stubborn suckers remain active, creating a potentially lethal hazard for those who don’t chew thoroughly enough.
Bold diners can experience sannakji in two distinct ways. The more dramatic version involves wrapping an entire baby octopus around wooden chopsticks, dipping it in sesame oil, and consuming it in one brave bite. The safer alternative, known as tangtangi, presents the octopus chopped into small pieces of 1 to 3 centimetres, seasoned with sesame oil and salt, then topped with Korean pear slices, scallions, and an egg yolk.
Cultural Significance vs Modern Concerns
In Korean culture, nakji holds a special place. Ancient texts from the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) describe how people would feed these octopi to exhausted or birthing cows to revive them. Today, many Koreans view it as a healthy superfood, rich in protein, taurine, and essential nutrients.
However, the tide of public opinion shows signs of shifting. A recent survey revealed that four out of 10 Koreans find television broadcasts of sannakji consumption disturbing. Meanwhile, international animal rights organisations highlight growing scientific evidence that octopi can feel pain, leading to calls for change in how these intelligent creatures are treated.
In Seoul alone, approximately 350 restaurants specialise in sannakji. Local chefs take pride in their preparation technique, particularly in tangtangi, where the name itself mimics the sound of knives striking the cutting board. Each chef wields two blades simultaneously, creating a rhythmic kitchen percussion as they prepare the dish.
The Future of a Controversial Tradition
As global awareness of animal welfare increases, Korea faces a complex dialogue about this traditional dish. Some countries have already banned similar practices – Italy, Switzerland, and Norway now prohibit boiling live lobsters, setting precedents that could influence how nations approach the preparation of live seafood.
Yet for many Koreans, sannakji remains deeply embedded in their culinary heritage. At popular locations like the Noryangjin Fish Market, tourists and locals alike still seek out this unique dining experience, though perhaps with more careful consideration than in years past.
The story of sannakji encapsulates a broader global conversation about where tradition ends and ethics begin. As science reveals more about cephalopod consciousness and younger generations question inherited practices, this extraordinary dish stands at a crossroads between cultural preservation and evolving values.
